Years ago I cut out a travel article about two flowered and color washed cities: Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. I knew that someday I would go to both of those cities. Someday came last December. We arrived to the center of town from the airport in our taxi, emerging from one of the long tunnels that criss-cross the underground of Guanajuato. After checking into the hotel and our room we immediately turned around and hit the pavement. We were out to discover this beautiful, captivating Guanajuato.
Just steps from our hotel there is a plaza, not grand in size but beautiful none the less. We would pass through this plaza many times in the next five days. You can see the narrow passage that took us to a rather steep street. And at the top of the street, just around the corner, we saw El Templo for the first time.
The Churches of Guanajuato
The full name of the church is Templo de la Compania de Jesus Oratorio de San Luis Felipe Neri. We did not rush ourselves inside but spent our time taking in everything that came to us. I was convinced that I must have walked into the most beloved and beautiful church of all Guanajuato.
Then, in the following days we would discover one amazing church after another. One church that is special to those that live in Guanajuato is the Basilica Colegiata de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato (see below). It stands out among the 23 Baroque churches in the small area of Central Guanajuato.. I was to discover that this was just a turn around the corner from where we were staying. So, since we were in Guanajuato on a Sunday morning, we deiced to visit both churches. On another occasion, after a long afternoon of wandering and shopping, I stopped to just sit in the Templo and enjoy the quiet there.
So why so many churches, these beautiful specimens of Baroque architecture? I decided to do some research. During the 16th century the Spanish discovered mineral deposits of silver and gold. It turns out that this was the richest area in the world for silver deposits! By the 17th and 18th century there was extensive mining. It is not a surprise that extensive wealth in Guanajuato followed. Being the Catholic Church, priests were sent from Europe to convert the native population. So not only churches made from the profit of the richest area in the world for silver deposits, but civil buildings and residences were built. And the churches rose all over Guanajuato. They were in the Baroque design of Europe, but with a style influenced by and true to Mexico.
The Neighborhoods
The walk from the church to the university wasn’t far. I was getting my first taste of the neighborhoods. You will hear a lot about them in my other posts of Guanajuato.
Universidad de Guanajuato
Up the hill, and a short distance from the church , we came right on to the main entrance to the university. I didn’t walk up and enter, though. Number one, there are 133 steps to the entrance. And number two, the steps were packed with students. They seemed to be all over the city, too. Michael, who speaks limited Spanish, always strikes up conversation with the few words he does know. We found out it was graduation day for some of the departments. This young university population of Guanajuato lends to a lively atmosphere in the city in the restaurants, bars and in the streets.
Check before you visit Guanajuato to see what’s going on. The university is responsible for different activities during the year. Some of them are presented in the Teatro Juarez in the center of town. On a another day, quite happily, I found an exhibit of Mexican photography in a gallery of the university in the corner of the building.
El Pipila
If you are confused and lose your way in the streets of Guanajuato, look up for the monument of El Pipila. He will be there, standing high above the city, helping you to set your course. Even if you are not lost, look up at night. The monument will be lit up, bright and beautiful. Pipila was the nickname for the miner and local hero who fought during the Mexican War for Independence. He gained fame by facilitating the burning of the doors to the grain warehouse. The warehouse stored not only the grain but the silver of the Spanish military. This building called Alhondiga de Granadita is a museum today. (Museo Regional de Guanajuato) The building is made of high stone walls, but unfortunately for the Spanish, the doors were made of wood.
Funicular Panoramico
You might want to hike up to see the views of Guanajuato. But for a few pesos and a short ride, you can take the funicular https://funicular.mx/. We rode up in the morning. But I imagine it must be a real treat to see the city as the sun goes down. And to see the lights gradually come up over Guanajuato. At night the neighborhoods are well lit, in case you miss the last downward ride at 9:00 pm.
Museo Casa Diego Rivera
There are several museums in Guanajuato. Out of our love for his work, we chose to visit the Museo Casa Diego Rivera. This was the home where Rivera, one of Mexico’s most cherished artists, was born and spent his childhood. There are three floors to the building. The first floor features some of his original artwork and collections of artifacts from his house. The rooms are done as Rivera, who was born in 1886, would have known it. You can view what a home in Guanajuato would have been like, with it’s inner courtyard, at the end of the 19th Century. The second floor features some of Rivera’s art and the third floor is used for revolving exhibitions of other artists.
Walking Tours
Our hotel room was on the second floor at the back of the building. I loved hanging out there, especially in the evenings. I would hear the voices, not raucous, but with some excitement, that came up to our window in the back. And there was singing, too. These were the voices of the walking tours that would go through the narrow street and through Guanajuato. I am sure they must have been guided by university students. https://www.toursbylocals.com
Mercado Hidalgo
The Mercado Hidalgo was originally built to be a train station. It was started in 1905 but was completely abandoned as a train station in 1910. It was then decided it would be a market and has been a market ever since. Take note of the clock tower sitting atop the lattice steel structure when you are there. That was designed by none other than Alexander Eiffel, the famous Frenchman of the Eiffel Tower.
Jardin de la Union
The Jardin is a sweet memory! As it turned out the hotel where we stayed faced the garden, so we spent evenings, mornings, and time in between there. I loved our times in the La Jardin so much that it merited a full post: https://roadtosuchness.comguanajuato-el-jardin-de-la-union/
Day Trip to Dolores Hidalgo
It was part of our plan to take a day trip to the historic city where the Mexican Revolution began. Added to seeing Dolores Hidalgo was the beautiful countryside ride up there and back.
I definitely wanted to see the church where those first rebellious cries were sung out. I wanted also to shop for the ceramics that are made there. It was totally worth the trip. Wow, do I wish we had had our car to pack some of those items to bring home. (I did buy a few wonderful things to hide in my suitcase, though). We took a taxi there but on the way back decided a bus would do just as well. But hold on to your hat! They do love to press down on that petal at times. You can see the post of our day in Dolores de Hidalgo here: https://roadtosuchness.comdolores-hidalgo-2/
Thanks for your blog, nice to read. Do not stop.