I was looking through some old photographs in Lightroom when I came across my photographs of Paris. What perfect memories these shots of Paris brought back! And how different to have been there at a time when COVID-19 was neither a thought, nor a feared possibility. Finding these memories, remembering, and organizing them here has been so healing.
I was so happy during our ten days in the month of September. I won’t say, though, that the trip didn’t present a lot of challenges. This was my first time in Paris. So I wanted to figure out before going how we might organize our time and take the best advantage of those ten days. It was good to have a plan before going and to let our days unfold without effort when we got there.
I should mention first where we stayed and what are meals were:
I spent hours (and I do mean hours!) looking for the perfect apartment on VRBO. It was my intention in Paris to live the ten days there as a Parisian, in an apartment that for ten days was home. We finally both agreed on a loft in Ste. Germaine des Pres that looked out over the city to the Eglise Saint Sulpice and beyond to the Eiffel Tower. It was in the heart of everything, but once in our apartment it was quiet, with peaceful mornings and nights.
Unusual for me, I did not make elaborate plans for finding and eating in any particular restaurants. We were in luck in every way, though. Every day we would stop by the local little market and fresh air farmers market. On the same street there was a bakery and a store for wine. So most of our meals were in the quiet of our apartment after a long day and a hot bath in our wonderful tiled bathroom. Many included great cheese assortments, French wine, salads, fresh pastries and yes, fresh bread.
So here is how we spent our ten days in Paris:
Day One
Luxembourg Gardens
Early in the morning, the first adventure, Luxembourg Gardens and the Grand Palace. This was the beginning of ten days of hours of daily walking through the city. It was our way of discovering all the special corners, full of unplanned surprises. Being in Paris when there are dark clouds and occasional rain, the city seems to be there just for you. And so it was with Luxembourg Gardens in this early morning. We did return at the end of our visit. It was a sunny evening and we got to share the grounds with local children and visitors. But this first morning we had the garden almost to ourselves.
Medici Palace
The Palace (now home to the Senate) , was commisioned by Marie Medici, widow of Henry IV, in 1611. Our apartment, only a short half block from the Theatre Odion. And then only a short walk to the entrance. Not far inside the entrance though the Luxembourg gate, at one side of the Grand Palace, we came upon the Medici Fountain. Along the flower lined length of this little grotto are large trees that rise and shelter the lovers Acis and Galatea. The jealous giant Polyplemus, towering above them, is about to throw his rock and kill Acis. But Galatea, caught in her own ecstacy, even on this morning with rain drops, is eternally oblivious to any peril.
Medici Fountain
Not far inside the entrance though the Luxembourg gate, at one side of the Grand Palace, we came upon the Medici Fountain. Along the flower lined length of this little grotto are large trees that rise and shelter the lovers Acis and Galatea. The jealous giant Polyplemus, towering above them, is about to throw the rock that kills Acis. But Galatea, caught in her own ecstacy. On this morning, even with rain drops, she is eternally oblivious to any peril.
Queens of France and Famous French Women
All around the large pond in front of the palace are twenty statues. They are all of women, queens and others that made a difference in France’s history. What I loved were their heavy robes. And the raindrops that trickled down the heavy fabric. But most of all I loved how they looked off over the gardens. Each strong woman was lost in her own thoughts, toward her part in France’s history, paying no attention to me.
Day Two
The Gran Mosque of Paris
In the late morning, after walking forever through Parisian neighborhoods, we arrived at the mosque. The truth is, I had never been in a mosque before and heard that the mosque in Paris was worth a visit. We spent over an hour in the gardens and then the different sections of the mosque. I was glad that we went and that we were told when leaving a donation that there was a restaurant. It had all of the the very special Middle Eastern pastries that I love and nice setting to sit for awhile.
Day Three
La Conciergerie and Isle Sainte-Louis
There are two islands within the city of Paris, on the River Seine. Our apartment in St. Germaine was not far at all from the La Conciergerie, standing strong on the Isle Sainte-Louis. So after having coffee and morning people watching, we were there in no time. La Conciergerie was part of the former Medieval palace of the royal family until the 14th century. Charles V ceased using the palace as his home and instead housed his courts and prisons there. This is where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned and stood trial. So much history and just the way I love to spend a morning in a new city.
And notice that bridge! We walked back and forth over so many of the bridges of Paris during our ten days there. I never tired of them. .
Ile Saint-Louis
The second island is Ile Saint-Louis. Once the site of cow pastures and medieval homes, it was razed in the 19th century for tall buildings looking outward toward the city rather then into interior courtyards. I had played with the idea of looking for an apartment on the island. (but was so happy with our choice of a loft in Saint Germaine) Looking for lunch? There are nice bistros on Place Dauphine and we were lucky to have the perfect soup on an overcast day. Later we walked down the streets of Saint-Louis and got in line for ice cream at the popular at Glacier Berthillon.https://www.introducingparis.com/sainte-chapelle. You might have to stand in line at this favorite place but being there was worth it.
Being on Ile Saint-Louis would be a great time to visit Notre Dame. I admit that I was one of those first time visitors that didn’t realize Notre Dame was on an island. Also be sure you enter Sainte Chapelle https://www.introducingparis.com/sainte-chapelle possibly, because of its stained glass interior, the most beautiful interior of all the churches in Paris. Take time to walk through the Place Dauphine. Pont Neuf Bridge, the oldest and most historic bridge in Paris. There are some steps behind the statue of Henry IV. If you go down them you will find yourself in little park, quieter then any other point on the two islands.
Day Four
Sunday Along the Seine
Batou Bus
Jardine des Plantes
Jardin des Plantes was our last stop along the Seine. There is a zoo somewhere mixed in the beautiful setting, but we just wanted to walk the vast garden one step at a time, not to hurry through this beautiful setting……and then take a walk through the streets of Paris back to Ste. Germaine des Pres.
Place de la Concorde
The Place de la Concorde was our first stop of the morning. A great place to start your day by seeing the Luxor Obelisk. The obelisk was one of a pair of Egyptian obelisks that guarded the temple at Luxor in Egypt. It was given as a gift to France. If you wanted, it would take about 30 minutes to stroll down the Champs Elysee. Unless, of course, you stopped for all the adventures that might come up on the way. Then it might take the whole morning.
But we wanted to see the Gran Palais and spent time there and found a surprising garden to the side of the building.
We also caught sight of this lovely carriage being escorted down the streets near the Gran Palais:
Tour Eiffel
We got to the Eiffel Tower at noon. All of the grounds were packed with people. The line for the elevator to explore the upper part of the tower went on forever. So we returned one evening and walked through the beautiful neighborhoods surrounding the tower. The grounds this time, in early evening after an afternoon rain fall, were all ours. I loved seeing the tower at night, all lit up.
We had a view of the tower from our bedroom window, too. Until about 2:00 a.m. the lights around the tower would got on and off and sparkle. Quite the magic!
Day Five
Saturday in the Marais
Le Centre Pompidou
Saturday was to be spent in the Centre Pompidou https://www.centrepompidou.fr/en, which houses so many pieces of modern art. I couldn’t wait to see them. And didn’t see them as it turned out! We found out after arriving that the museum was just closed for repairs and updates. I was so in shock and disappointed. But we spent time in the lower level of the building and time outside engaged in people and building watching. It is visually so different than everything else we had been visiting in Paris. It is something newer and fresh, adding a different dimension to the city.
Place des Vosques
We walked to the Place-des-Vosges after leaving the Centre Pompidou. Like many times in Paris, I remember following our noses more than any logic. We walked at last through a manicured garden and through the doors of a beautiful old building, down a long corridor. We were then were deposited into the green gardens of Place du Vosques with it’s green tree lined center surrounded on four sides by connecting red brick mansions.
The mansions date back to 1612. Place du Vosgues was the first square to be planned in Paris. One Mansion was the home of Victor Hugo, standing in one corner building. It is free to visit the three levels but don’t forget to stand in line for a ticket. I was caught half way up the stairs without one. Other interesting uses of the mansions is the Musee Picasso. The Musee Carnavalet houses all kinds of objects from prehistoric, Medieval Paris through to the revolution to the present day.
Falafels...to the Jewish Quarter
I was going through a period of craving for Falafels. And they aren’t easy to find in our home town of Santa Fe. So I was really excited to learn that you could get some of the world’s best Falafels in the Jewish Quarter of The Marais. I probably would have enjoyed more of the streets of the Marais if it hadn’t been for this craving and the fact that for the second time in Paris we got lost.
This particular day was a Jewish holiday and the little restaurants we were looking for would be closing at 5:00. By some miracle and to my great and happy relief we finally ended in the right alleyway where falafels were being sold from windows. Inside, restaurants were packed with standing room only. They were so nice to keep the windows open until we had our two falafels in hand. We walked down an uncrowded cobbled street. (much of the Old Marais is cobbled streets). In front of a shop, with a pigeon watching, we ate the best falafels I have ever had.
Day Six
Paris Flea Markets
I was super excited about going to a flea market in Paris. So on our Saturday morning in Paris, we ignored the rain and took the metro to Porte de Clignancourt. Sometimes known by it’s official name, Les Puces (the fleas) de Saint-Owen. This happens to be the largest flea market in the world. If I would have known that I might have chosen another market. And possibly for the intermittent rain, there were not the thousands that sometimes arrive. No matter. I couldn’t have been happier than spending a few hours looking at all those vintage and antique treasures.
Day Seven
Le Louvre
At every corner I met, for the first time, old friends that I had previously only seen in books.
And I made dozens of new acquaintances. There is something from every part of history.
At every corner, in every room, that was something to marvel. For the most part I was anonymous, sharing, a part of the crowd.
Other times I would l find a quiet space to myself.
The Louvre. Once a palace for kings. Now a home for the history of us all. It is who we are. What a day for me!
Day Eight
La Coulee Verte
I had other reasons why I wanted to be in the area that afternoon. But definitely La Coulee Verte turned out to be the highlight of the day. We planned to eat at Le Tren Blue https://www.le-train-bleu.com/fr/. Then we would walk the short distance to check out the artists studios at Viaduc des Arts.
Le Tren Blue is Paris beautiful, featuring floor to ceiling paintings of places that the train stopped in bygone days. If you are not there at a time for a lighter meal they do have separate bistro tables and an area for drinks. The restaurant is directly in front of the train platforms at the Paris Gare De Lyon.
Viaduc des Arts
The Viaducts.http://www.leviaducdesarts.com/fr/viaduc-361.html are actually what carried the trains of the Paris Bastille-Varenne lines. They ran from mid-century nineteen hundreds to 1969 when the trains stopped running. The ducts were later refurbished and and are now rented to craftsmen. We were there in the middle of the week but I understand it can get pretty lively
La Coulee Verte
I loved how you could feel surrounded by green and in a space that seemed far away from everything. And other times you would walk so close to buildings that you couldn’t help but sneak a peak. And muse about the Parisian life behind the windows.
There are spots from the Coule Verte where you can look out over the city of Paris. This, for example! Architecture of the building of the police department not far from the trains at Le Gar de Lyon:
Day Nine
Cimetiere Pere Lachaise
I am one of those odd people that like visiting cemeteries and graveyards. But maybe not so odd as I read that over a million people visit Pere Lachaise each year. It turns out that it is the most visited cemetery in the world. It is vast. We didn’t get to even half of the area, I am sure. We did a lot of lingering. Mostly alone, it was part like walking through a quiet garden. And from place to place we encountered different styles from different times. The different graves, chambers, mausoleums were all new to me. But some of the names were familiar…don’t be surprised. The famous and well known throughout history are here.
Day Ten
Montmartre
Visiting Montmarte had a beginning and an end that were the best parts of my visit that day. Michael decided that we would take the metro to a neighborhood close to Montmarte. He was looking for very old, practically hidden steps, that he remembered from other trips to Paris. Using them, we could ascend to the entrance to Sacre Coeur. These steps were old blocks of stone covered in vegetation and hidden behind green foliage and trees. Occasionally, we would have glimpses of the city through the trees. This climb up turned out to be one of my favorite memories of our last day in Paris.
For sure we entered the Basilica Sacre Coeur. And we shared the experience with what seemed like hundreds of other persons. But still, I am glad we did, awed as I was in all the churches we entered in Paris. These included Notre Dame, Abbey Sainte Germaine des Pres (known to be the oldest church in Paris). And Eglise Saint Sulpice, which we could also see from our bedroom window.
They were the streets and neighborhoods of Montmarte that enchanted. I would go again to wander if I were ever in Paris again. It is a great thing that Montmarte is designated by the city of Paris to be a historic district. So there is a limited amount of development allowed and Montmarte maintains its historic character.
Covered Passages
Getting lost is something we did a few times in Paris. And it is not the worst thing that could happen, as other things sometimes come up. I remember all the Parisians who helped me. There came a woman who attached herself to me and tolerated my very bad French. We were looking for the covered passage called the Passage Jouffry. It was well worth the effort to find. We had a lunch of crepes and sat at a table in the walkways and watched the city walk by. And enjoyed all the shops under high glass covering.
Galeries Lafayette
Galeries Lafayette. The most beautiful place I could wish for an afternoon of shopping for designer’s clothing, jewelry, or perfume. And I couldn’t really leave Paris without knowing what it is like to shop there. I made it finally as my last stop of the day, a grand finale of all my days in Paris. How beautiful. I did buy gifts there, but mainly I stopped at different levels and stared out in awe. I understand that at Christmas time a Christmas tree is suspended from the dome. And each year it is a different. There is no doubt in my mind that it sparkles.
