The Plaza
Getting There:
There’s no better place than The Plaza to begin a Santa Fe walk through history. Find it sandwiched between Palace Avenue to the north and San Francisco to the south. 63 Lincoln Avenue. But if you ask a local for help, just say The Plaza. I don’t think anyone actually knows the exact address, but every local knows where it is.
I can’t even begin to remember the times in the fourteen years of living in Santa Fe that I’ve returned to the Plaza. Visitors and locals will come here for any number of reasons throughout the year. But mostly The Plaza just seems to be a part of any walk or errand I might find myself on when I am in town. Or maybe the real truth is I always love the occasion or excuse to find myself there again. And if you do visit Santa Fe, the chances are at one point you will be passing through, too.
The Lensic Performing Arts Center
Getting There:
Leaving The Plaza, turn west. (Look for Lincoln Avenue…that’s West). As you continue walking on Lincoln you will pass Don Gaspar and Galisteo on your left. Window shop or get some coffee on the way, if you want. Farther down, you”ll see the building of the Lensic Performing Arts Center on the right.
The History
Standing in front of the Lensic with it’s Spanish Renaissance exterior, reminiscent of Moorish Spain, you might wonder what history is hidden behind those walls. Since it opened its doors in June, 1931 and into the 1960’s it was the center of movie and vaudeville entertainment for Santa Fe. There was a flow of appearances from the greats, stars such as Roy Rogers, Judy Garland. At one point Ronald Reagan made an appearance. But by the end of the 1990’s it was barely used.
Luckily for Santa Fe, in 2001 and after recognition from the National Trust for Historic Preservation, renovations and restoration began. Not only was the interior redesigned for musical and dramatic performances that Santa Fe enjoys all year. The architecture and design elements on the exterior of the building were also restored. In all, the Lensic was transformed from a movie palace to a state of the art non-profit performing arts center.
Tickets
On a weekly basis there are performances in dance, music, film, theatre, opera and lectures. Tickets are available at the box office at 211 West San Francisco, by phone or online. https://lensic.org/events/
Burrow Alley
Getting There
You might also notice when you are observing the Lensic that just across from the corner of the building is a bronze burro, life size and with firewood on its back. You are now at the entrance to Burro Alley
The History
Burro Alley is an historic alley that goes back to the 17th century. Up until the 19th century the wood that was needed for heating in Santa Fe was brought in on the backs of burros. It was sold in Burro Alley, the less gentile part of town. When the wood was sold the profits were spent in the saloons and brothels that lined the alley. We have additional ways of heating our homes now in Santa Fe. So the wood in Burro Alley is gone and so are the saloons and brothels….. But you can still get a good burger there.
New Mexico Museum of Art
Getting There
At the end of Burrow Alley you come out facing Grant Avenue, which is across the street. The road you are on now is East Palace. Turn right on East Palace and walk a short block to reach the stately Pueblo Revival adobe building that is the New Mexico Museum of Art.
The History
It’s hard to miss, this stately Pueblo Revival adobe building! The oldest art museum in the state, it celebrated it’s one hundredth birthday just years ago in November, 2017. The building itself is a work of art done in the style of Pueblo Revival architecture. You will find true Native American and Spanish design styles both on the exterior and interior of the building. It’s a favorite of mine. I will go into more detail of the interior and the art therein in a future post of the museums found in a small radius at the center of downtown Santa Fe.
Palace of the Governors
Getting There
Passing the museum you will be on the corner of Lincoln and Palace Avenue. Look across the street, in front of the Plaza and you will see the Palace of the Governors.
The History
The building seemed unremarkable to me when I saw it for the first time. I was unaware at that time of its history. For one thing, construction began in 1610. This was twenty-five years before the Pilgrims even landed in Plymouth. So keep in mind that this Palace is the oldest continuously occupied public building in the United States. It served as the seat of government of the Spanish Colony of Nuevo Mexico. At one time that comprised the present day states of Texas, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Nevada and New Mexico. Pretty big slice of territory.
When New Mexico was annexed by the United States as a U.S. Territory, the Palace became New Mexico’s first Territorial Capital. It served as the capital building until 1885-1889 when a new capital was built, but still served as the residence of the governor until 1909. Today the Governor’s Palace is a museum where you can experience how the building was and what it came to be. And you can learn of the lives of the people who lived and worked there.
The Present
For today you can walk the length of the building’s exterior portal, visiting Native Americans who set up their treasures to sell on blankets under the portal, along the length of the building.
La Casa Sena
Getting There
Come out from under the portal at the east side of the Palace of the Governors. Cross the street and walk East along the next block. You are still on East Palace Avenue.
Keep in mind on your walk around the Plaza and through the streets of Santa Fe, that the buildings and the paths are, for the most part, original too. Watch your step. Because it is in its original state, the city is not on a perfect grid. If you find an alley or turn in the road that calls you to enter, go for it and explore. You can always come back.
The History
Halfway down the block of East Palace Avenue, you will pass the entrance to The Shed https://sfshed.com/. I bring it to your attention as an example of what was at one time an old home, now turned into a restaurant. It is a favorite of Santa Fe locals for good, honest Southwest cuisine. Typical of old adobe homes, you have the experience of eating in cozy rooms with fireplaces throughout. This place hops, so if there is a line in front, you can sometimes make a reservation right there by putting your name on the list. Then continue exploring the city and show up again at the appointed time.
A few steps down from the Shed, enter through the portal into the adobe structure called La Casa Sena: https://www.lacasasena.com/sena-plaza/. Even during busy times of the day it doesn’t seem rushed and in the summer it always seems cool. It is lush green, overgrown and on the wild side.
La Casa Sena was first owned by the Sena family and grew from a small house into a thirty-three room hacienda. The Sena family grew, too, as Mrs. Sena had twenty-two children. Eleven survived into adulthood. Imagine the courtyard as it was with only fledgling green trees, chickens, a coach house, servant’s quarters and two wells, one of which you can still see. Look up to the second floor and imagine the ballroom where the family entertained.
The Present
Eventually the hacienda was sold and the rooms became shops and offices and a restaurant, La Casa Sena. You can sit in the inner courtyard in the warmer months, have a drink by the fountain, surrounded and cooled by the old trees and vegetation.
The Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis Assisi
Getting There
Leaving the Casa Sena, look East to Cathedral Place which runs north to south. Straight ahead you will see the basilica. On the east side of this road is Cathedral Park. This is a great place to stop in the warmer months. You can chill here and literally so, especially in the summer, given the canopy of old trees and a carpet of green.
The History
Definitely take time to enter the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, https://cbsfa.org/home0.aspx. Since 1626 this has been a long work in progress. Another church once stood where the Cathedral is now, but was destroyed in the Pueblo Indian Revolt in 1626. It wasn’t until 1716 that the Parroquia was built. Then in 1869 Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy started construction of the present day cathedral, building the structure around the Parroquia. The cathedral has remained open since 1886. Except for a chapel on the north side of the cathedral, all of the remaining Parroquia was then taken down.
The Present
In the center of the altar in the old Parroquia is the La Conquistadora, the oldest statue of the Virgin Mary in the United States. She was originally brought to Santa Fe from Mexico in 1625 and has held her place of honor in the Parroquia since 1717. There is not only an interesting history surrounding her, but La Conquistadora has a rich and expensive wardrobe that includes clothing, crowns, jewels and wigs… 200 outfits in total (although another source quoted 300).
Many of these pieces were made by local Santa Feans to give thanks for prayers answered or to honor the Virgin Mary. How does she ever make up her mind what to wear! I’m sure there are favorites for the beginning of Fiesta each year. She leaves the cathedral then and leads the processions from The Palace of the Governor’s back to the cathedral. And, unless there are other special occasions, she does get her outfits changed and refreshed once a month.
La Fonda Hotel
Getting There
As you leave through the metal doors of the Cathedral, look straight ahead. Cross the street and head west on East San Francisco Place toward the corner of La Fonda Hotel. You will see the Plaza on the opposite corner.
TheHistory
Since the founding of Santa Fe in 1610, there has always been an inn or a hotel on this corner. It was the end to long journeys. Many were taken from Mexico to Santa Fe on what was called the Camino Real de Adentro. It is also the end of the eight hundred mile Santa Fe Trail between St. Louis and Santa Fe. Until the railroad came to town, traffic and commerce between St. Louis and Santa Fe began and ended here.
The Present
Being a destination, Santa Fe has a wealth of beautiful hotels. But La Fonda has always been a favorite of mine. That, of course, is no doubt due to the authentic connection to the history of Santa Fe that I feel the hotel embodies.
Loretto Chapel
Getting There
Exit La Fonda to the corner of Washington and San Francisco. Facing the Plaza you will turn left and walk South to the next corner, Washington and Water Street. Turn left on Water, walk a short distance and to your right will be the corner of the Old Santa Fe Trail. Walk a short distance on the Trail and you will see the Loretto Chapel on your left.
The History
The beautiful thing about the Loretto Chapel is the ongoing mystery, some say miracle, that you notice as soon as you enter the church. This would be the winding staircase at the back of the church that spirals up to the chapel choir. Take note. It has no apparent center beam. After the chapel was built, but before the construction of a staircase to lead to the choir, the architect died. The chapel, which is small, could not afford the space that an ordinary staircase would take up. No one could figure out what to do. That is no one except the Sisters of Loretto. They prayed to San Lorenzo.
Probably hearing the news, a poor carpenter appeared with a barrel of wood, in need of work, and completed the job of making a winding staircase. He made the staircase without any nails, with wood that was not of a local source. (there are not too many trees in the desert, anyway.) and completed it with no handrails. It also wabbled! (Many of the sisters would navigate it by crawling up and then crawling back down.) The carpenter, however, had left without a word, without pay, leaving only the miracle behind.
To this day, there has been much head scratching about the mystery of how the staircase was ever made. There are two 360 degree turns and no visible means of support! The sisters, however, did not scratch their heads. They only prayed in gratitude. They knew the carpenter was really San Lorenzo.
The Present
The chapel is no longer for local school girls. Now you can get married there. Or just stop for a visit. If you do visit, check out the stained glass windows that were sent from Paris and the handrail that was added at a later date to the winding staircase. One can certainly attest to the beauty of the building, miracle or not.
SPOILER: Later day engineers, on examination, observed a central support of an inner wood stringer, with such a small radius that it functions almost as a solid pole.
The Oldest House
Getting There
Leaving Loretto Chapel continue on the The Old Santa Fe Trail, still heading South. On the corner there is a traffic light where you will cross Alameda. (Also notice that you are crossing over the Santa Fe River. Or maybe not. It gets so dry in Santa Fe that the river all but disappears) Continue South one more block until you come to De Vargas Street where you will turn left. You are now in the Analco District. Immediately you will see a two story adobe house which is called The Oldest House. And with a little history you will understand why.
The History
A small pueblo which was later called the Analco inhabited the area just south of the Rio Santa Fe before the Spanish arrived. Legend has it that there was a building standing on the site of San Miguel Chapel which was part of the Analco Pueblo. It was there when the Spanish arrived in 1610. History, however, has it that the house was built in 1649. Skip ahead several centuries when repairs were done on the house and the engineer noticed that part of the foundation was constructed of “puddle adobe”, used by the Pueblo Indians before the Spanish arrived with their construction skills in adobe bricks. An archeological study also concluded that some sections of the walls are characteristic of Pueblo architecture and may certainly be pre-Spanish.
The Present
Whatever the case and whatever it’s age, the house still stands and after much care and repairs over the years, is there for you to visit. There is a gift shop when you enter and to your left a part of the house, with small narrow rooms, much as they would have been all those years ago. You get an idea of the space used for cooking and meals for the people (most likely more than one family) that lived there. The second floor, used for sleeping, is not open for viewing.
San Miguel Mission
Getting There
Follow directions for The Oldest House. It is directly in front of the house facing Old Santa Fe Trail
The History
This is the oldest church in the United States. It was built soon after the Spanish settled here in 1610. It was built by the Tlaxacalan Indians who the Spanish brought with them from Mexico soon after their arrival un 1610.
The Present
Check their website, above, for any changes and the possibility of Sunday service commencing again. Live musical performances are still held here for the community. Like the oldest house that sits just on the side of the mission, San Miguel has had reason for many facelifts over the years. What remains of the original building is somewhere hidden within the various layers of extensive and loving repairs.
Conclusion
Indian Nations, Spain, Mexico and finally the United States when in 1846 Brigadier General Kearny led his soldiers into the city and planted the flag squarely in the Plaza. All of them took and all of them gave dearly for this small patch of land. Like the river that sustained them all, they have all in turn nourished, contributed, continue to contribute to the character that makes Santa Fe “The City Different”. The city that intrigues so many and that calls us to come see for ourselves.
